| Partial deadlift boxes; Various plans | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 24 2005, 05:29 PM (2,247 Views) | |
| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 24 2005, 05:29 PM Post #1 |
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Now you're boring us
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So I've got a couple ideas for building these. The first is to cut a 1/2" sheet of plywood into 32 12"x12" squares screwing them into 8" thick blocks, then putting 1"x1" stoppers on either end to prevent the plates from rolling off. My other idea was to use 4"x4"'s, cut down to 18" and stacked 3 high. The only problem there is that I'd have to leave enough space between the boards on the top level so that the bar rests 1.5" down into the block. Otherwise it would be over 18" and that starts to get into my knee area. Another option might be to do one level of the block with 6x6's and another layer with 4x4's. That could probably give me a total height of 18". What do you think? |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 24 2005, 05:49 PM Post #2 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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My idea for a block was to build it different dimensions so that if you flip it you have a different height. like 12x16x18. Just an idea. Your best bet is to ask a lumber yard if they have any scrap rim board or even 2x12" joist scraps. Or 3/4" ply with 2x4 interior framing. |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 24 2005, 06:51 PM Post #3 |
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Now you're boring us
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Yet another idea Take 2x8's, cut them down to 12", nail 10-12 of them together, add strips to either side Now I just have to figure out what kind of lumber is cheaper |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 25 2005, 04:36 PM Post #4 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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OK I get what you are saying. But why do you want the thing to be solid? Way to bulky and you don't need that kind of strength. Plywood is your best option. If you know a contractor even better because you could get scraps for free probably. By going with a 2x4 framwork and plywood exterior (3/4 or 5/8") you will be way better off. 2x8's stacked will work but are you doing box squats or resting a semi on it? Just some ideas. B) |
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| Brian Amundsen | Jun 26 2005, 05:10 PM Post #5 |
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If you want 18" deadlift boxes then buy some 2x10's cut em into 15-18" lengths and screw em together. Put some 1x1's on the edges so the wt. won't roll off. You will want it really solid for 18" deads because you'll be using heavy wts. |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 26 2005, 10:42 PM Post #6 |
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Now you're boring us
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I figured 2x8's would be better. That way the bar would be sitting at 16.5" instead of 18.5". Especially with the bend from the bar I figured pulling from too low would be better than too high. |
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| Brian Amundsen | Jun 27 2005, 12:28 AM Post #7 |
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I believe a bar with plates starts at 8 5/8" so you would only truely be 1/8" higher. You could just where shoes and get a 1/2" or so difference to combat the higher start. I've built boxes with 2x8's and I like em, so you can't go wrong either way. |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 27 2005, 01:39 PM Post #8 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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OK So you want boxes for box squats and DL's. Sorry I though it was just for box squats. So is it way different deadlifting off boxes than off a rack? |
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| Llamapower | Jun 27 2005, 01:46 PM Post #9 |
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Not The Mama
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I love my cages for partial deadlifts.
Anna Rosen is using them in this picture:![]() |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 27 2005, 02:59 PM Post #10 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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Now that looks interesting! B) |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 27 2005, 05:13 PM Post #11 |
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Now you're boring us
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You get more bar bend off boxes instead of a rack. And if you have a cheap shitty rack, like me, the pins don't go low enough for 18" deads. |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 27 2005, 06:19 PM Post #12 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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My rack is very strong. I think I can deadlift from 14" at the lowest. 18" is the third hole from the bottom. |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 27 2005, 08:17 PM Post #13 |
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Now you're boring us
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The lowest hole on mine is 20", plus 1" for the bar |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 27 2005, 08:52 PM Post #14 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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Can't you just drill some more holes? |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 28 2005, 01:17 PM Post #15 |
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Now you're boring us
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Maybe. But then I'd have to go get a new bit, line up the hole through both sides of both posts. It's probably be easier, although a little more expensive to just go buy some wood and screw it together. |
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| mennonite muscle | Jun 28 2005, 01:34 PM Post #16 |
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Listens to Kelly Clarkson!
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I guess, unless you can borrow a bit from someone. Or if your rack can be taken a part you can probably bring it to a welder or machinist and get them drilled for under $20. |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 28 2005, 04:07 PM Post #17 |
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Now you're boring us
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I had to take doors off the hinges to get my rack into my basement and I had to trip the ceiling beams to make it fit. It won't be leaving any time soon. I'll see if my buddy who works in construction can hook me up. Otherwise I'll probably just build the boxes. |
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| Brian Amundsen | Jun 29 2005, 01:35 AM Post #18 |
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wood boxes should only cost you 15 to 20 bux. |
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| sqeezemasterflash | Jun 29 2005, 01:50 PM Post #19 |
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Now you're boring us
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That's what I figured. 24' of 2x8 should make boxes 18"x12". A few cents worth of screws and you're done. Did you glue yours together before screwing them? |
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| Brian Amundsen | Jun 30 2005, 12:56 PM Post #20 |
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No, I think I put 4-6 screws in each board and then topped it with a 1x1 for a lip. |
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| TAT 70 | Jul 9 2005, 07:27 AM Post #21 |
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i`ll try the vaseline in the sock tonight
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Can someone post some pictures of these boxes & such as i`m a bit confused as to what they look like CHEERS :rolleyes:
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Anna Rosen is using them in this picture:

12:23 AM Jul 11
