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3.43 Rear Questions; Excuse my ignorance
Topic Started: Jan 29 2009, 02:33 PM (513 Views)
Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
I bought my car with a 3.43 rear from a 1995 Firebird, now I don't know anything about whether it'd be a 9 or 10 bolt, does anyone have anymore info for me about it? Would I have to replace the casing to go down to 3.73's or how would I check how worn the casing is?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
a 9 bolt has nine bolts :D the same for a ten bolt...

as far as changing gears , yes you can do it.. but i wouldn't suggest doing it urself unless you have a dial indicator...you need to check the endplay on it when putting the new gears in., and play around with the shims.... another nice addition would be to get a rearend girdle like the ones from TA..just to add that extra strength..less flex..just in case you get the power bug later on..

http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=48



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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
Ah yes I have none of that...but pops does lol. How much work is it going to take if I found one on CL?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
I would run this idea by your dad first...not alot of racers i know like messing with rear gears... you just have to unbolt the rear cap and then take the c-clips out that hold the axles and pull both axles out a bit and then you can go in and start taking it apart...if you know what your doing, it might take a weekend or so...I took my ford nine inch apart..it took about two days..



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klowny
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Da Klownfather
oh and whatever you do .. do not get c-clip eliminators..they leak..

just an fyi.. the c-clips are what holds those axles in place, and that is really a poor setup...once you start pushing alot of horsepwer they snap...that's why alot of people go with ford rearends..or danas



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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
Hmm, definelty somehting to consider, I want to take it to Lebanon this summer, and i feel i'm geared a little too high right now, idk. Ford rear ends are better?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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admin_glen
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To go from 3.43 t0 3.73 you may not even notice the change excpet at the gas pump.

Why do you want to do this switch?

If you do want to do it buy new gears not used they are cheap enough and you do not have to deal with someone elses abused crap.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalo...products_id=607

I know you could even get it for a better price

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...+115+4294791217
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1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
yeah... i have one from currie..i think i paid somewhere in the neighborhood of 3,500 dollars.....but you cant just put any 9 inch ford in..you have to have one that has all the necessary brackets for a thirdgen suspension..I also have a detroit soft locker..which disengages on turns and re-engages on straight aways..good shit..



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admin_glen
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Oh you have a 10 bolt on your ass ;)
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1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
THanks glen, and manny is there anyway to spend around $1000? lol that's all I got bra

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
yeah... im just retarded and pay full price for shit :doh: ..lol .. I think Alex got his 9 inch for a good price ... or you can go for a beefed up 10 bolt...that might run you about a grand..



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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
Thanks for the insight...also glen you said it won't make much of a difference, what ratio would you recommend if I want to run about 3-4 times at the track each summer but still want to drive it around town?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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admin_glen
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sadler
Jan 29 2009, 03:19 PM
Thanks for the insight...also glen you said it won't make much of a difference, what ratio would you recommend if I want to run about 3-4 times at the track each summer but still want to drive it around town?

My completly unedumucated recommendation is exactly what you have.

You still get to enjoy your daily driving without fake seat of the pants power. I have 4.10s now and it is just too high for my setup.

But you do have a better motor than me and more hp... I want to put 3.42s in mine.
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Welcome to any old and new members please remember we are here for you but we need your help to keep to club going. Please donate

http://s9.zetaboards.com/nythirdgen/topic/7437933/1/#new
For Donations and Merchandise orders paypal address is nythirdgen@live.com
:daughtry:

1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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Formula388
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Senior Technical Advisor
The 10 bolt from the 4th gen is 2 inches longer it is def a 10 bolt. You basically if you want to build for the track have to determine in 3rd gear at a 1:1 tranny ratio what you want your rpm to be at the end of the 1/4 mile or 1/8th whatever it is you are doing. My 10 bolt has been beefed up and people say that it will hold ABOUT 500hp which is borderline for my engine. It was professionally built with all top of the line stuff. No C-Clip eliminators. Mine is auctally a 3rd gen rear with a 4th gen SLP posi unit 28 spline axels blah blah blah. If you built it yourself with new parts like mine is built it will probably cost in the ballpark of $1000... but it isnt the best.
If you go to the track with your car on a stock rear you then have to worry about blowing it and driving home. I know if manny goes to the track he will have to worry about other things then his rearend blowing since his is essentially "bullitproof"
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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
Haha bulletproof, damn. I think i'm only around 350 hp, so it shouldn't be a problem, still considering my options, like i said only speanding around $1000 on it unless a get a big tax return... So no c-clips?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
Ash...everyone i know who had c-clip eliminators they leaked...it might be one of those mods that are good for the track but not the street...i also heard of people cutting of the housing ends and welding on ford ends...a good shop will do this mod.. this way you can get rid of the c clips..the axles will then be like a 9 iinch setup...there will be a bearing at the end of the axle and a plate holds it in...that setup is way better...

We can go on and on about hypoid offsets or bigger gears(some are 8.8 inches, 9 inches, 7 etc..) and pinion supports blah blah blah...but like dennis said..if you stay in the 300 horse range.you can get away with a beefed up 10 bolt



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charged355
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Nythirdgen Founder
save up for a 9 inch....or a 12 bolt...beefin up a third gen rear...is like drinkn to much with fat chicks around....sumthin bad is bound to happen....

but if you are gonna stay around your hp range you are in now....i wouldnt worry bout it to much....

me personally have a 9 inch....rear that is....with a locker...i love it....strongest rear out there and mine also has a additional backbrace welded on to it....lol...extra...but yeah...i wouldnt bother with it unless sumthing is really worng with your rear....

i ran my motor now with the stock rear for a while with drag radials with no issues...so i wouldnt worry
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Custom Forged 355 / Solid roller cam/valvetrain / Victor Jr heads / Hurricane Intake/ Accufab 1250cfm Throttle body / MegaSquirt 3 Engine Managment/ 1000cc SouthBay Injectors/ 7.6:1 CR / 4" Custom Single Exhaust / 4000 Circle D Stall/ CK Performance Billet 4L80 FMVB Trans Brake / 3" Chromoly Driveshaft / Full UMI Tubular Rear Suspension / Moser/Strange 9" / 4:11 gears Detroit Locker / Sumped LS1 gas tank / A1000 Fuel pump / A1000 FPR / Paxton Fuel filter / -10 Fuel line -8 return / Borg Warner S475 Turbo @10psi/ JGS 50mm WG & 56mm BOV / PA Racing Complete Tubular Front End Kit With Coilovers / Full Autometer Dash / Custom Black Suade Guts / Built by yours truly/ Tuned by George the EFI whiz

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Formula388
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Alex, I blew my 3.73 10Bolt with my old 355 and my T5... god that day sucked... but it is the reason I have my new firebird :) so ashley, some get lucky when running stock and some dont its a coin toss really.
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Ashley
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NYTHIRDGEN's First Lady
Hmm...makes me wonder haha. I don't think this will happen since my car isn't a beast yet, but do you guys conclude that the beefed up rear or the 3.43 is more succeptable to misery at the track?

1988 IROC-Z 350 5.7 liter TPI L98, 700r4, 3:43 posi disc, MSD 6al Ignition, CompCam 260 with 1.6RRs, Edelbrock shorty headers, Flowmaster 40 series 3" duals & Custom Y-Pipe, TCI 2800 RPM Torque converter, AutoMeter gauges, 15in Weld Racing wheels

Que linda me la traiga Cuba, La reina de la Mar Caribe, Quiero solo visitarla alli, Y que triste que no puedo vaya, O va, o va
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klowny
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Da Klownfather
If ur not planning on putting out more then 300-400 horses you should be alright with a beefy 10 bolt..gear wise u might as well put in 3:73's if you get the thing redone...I would just find a good rearend guy (ok that was gay lol), and tell him what you are planning to do with the car he should be able to give you an estimate..



Check out my thirdgen videos and technical how to vids...from basic car maintenance to Performance mods..
subscribe (its free to subscribe) and you will be updated on future projects:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HO-D0aIgx8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIx1TqfXt6A

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