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used tranny
Topic Started: Jul 8 2010, 10:48 AM (368 Views)
confucius101
Chris
OK so i got tired of not being able to drive my car and i just picked up a gm rebuilt tranny from Ted
now my uncle just offered to help me install it this weekend (should be fun)

this unit i've been told ran and shifted great b/4 being pulled and had really low miles after it's rebuild
and with ted you know the price was to good to pass up on

with luck i'll actually be able to drive my car by the end of the weekend :rock:

so now other then the fluid what do i or should i look at before hand

Thanks :)
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YoungMoneyVII
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make sure your tranny mounts good or youll be clunking away might as well do it while your doing the tranny save yourself some time.
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1988 5.7L Trans Am GTA
700R4 Overdrive
WS6
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Spade
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Undercover
yup
Keeping it REAL since 1984

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confucius101
Chris
Cool i just ordered a new poly mount
anything else you can think of
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admin_glen
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Founder <-----
Yeah cancel the order on the poly mount and goto the local auto parts supplier for the mount.

Some of these poly mounts are to high causing unnecessary strain on everything (ask Ed)...

Trust me you don't need the poly ones
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:daughtry:

1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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JekyllandHyde
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SENSEI
Or you could do what I did with my tranny mount and run it without the supplied shim. The shim raises the mount a little bit. I simply took it out. I have no problems with mine. I did order a poly mount from Spohn though... he carried the mounts specifically made for our cars.

Oh, and speaking of mounts, I bet that the mount to crossmember connection will be a stud and a nut. MAKE SURE you make this nice and secure. When I put my mount in, the nut AND the stud worked their way loose and dropped somewhere in Woodside and my tranny was clunking all the way home. Luckily the mount I got came with a spare stud and nut, so I used threadlocker red on both sides of the stud and for the nut, I used threadlocker red, a lockwasher, AND a nylon locking nut to make sure it doesn't fall out.

I'd also take a good look at the throttle valve cable and make sure it's not worn out and staying within the setting that its supposed to be at.

While you have the tranny out, you should replace your torque arm mount as well. I wish I did... :bang:
Currently looking for a 91-92 Z28, TTA or GN
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19transam86
Like a G6
just be really careful ripping the old tranny off, if u don't have acess to a lift then jacks and horses all the way around, esp. in these cars w/o a full chasiss

and of course i wish u the best of luck and an easy installation!!
Edited by 19transam86, Jul 9 2010, 08:50 PM.
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1986 Pontiac Trans Am, 305, 5-spd, 17" ZO6 Wheels
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confucius101
Chris
ok well we went at it for about 7hrs today and failed FML

the new used tranny looks great new seals & filter

the old unit however does not want to come out LOL
the drive shaft bolts cam right out 1 2 3
we had to pry the actual drive shaft out (and it began)
every single bolt has fought us tooth & nail not to mention the impact wrench, torch, & breaker bars LOL

It turns out the custom headers are keeping the engine up and us from having enough clearance to reach the last few bolts so we called it a night

so as of now we still need to unbolt the tranny from the engine and remove the dipstick LOL

tomorrow my uncle will be in church all day so i guess i'm stuck for now
i'm going to have to take a day off this week to try and finish this up

tomorrow i think i'm going to just ask him to pull the entire engine out
and give me the week to clean up & paint the bay but i dont think he'll go for it
his wife is pissed off that he even helped me at all and now my car is stuck in their yard for a few days

I really do love my life soooooooooo
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JekyllandHyde
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SENSEI
Are you talking about the final two bellhousing bolts that are on top? If so, if you have a ratcheting wrench, you can get at them from the top of the engine.
Currently looking for a 91-92 Z28, TTA or GN
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YoungMoneyVII
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watch out when you rip the torque arm off the tension built up in the suspension will release and send the rear down
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1988 5.7L Trans Am GTA
700R4 Overdrive
WS6
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confucius101
Chris
Ok so after pulling the headrrs yipipe cat distributor and belt off (I know there's more) we finally got the tranny out swapped in a new rear seal and rear cam gasket (had a leak) we started putting everything back together started filling her up and every seems great

also found several small exhaust leaks in my headers and pipe so I have to order a new set up

Any way we took her a quick spin up the bronx river and she shifted and everything worded out great and it turns out the tranny has been worked on so that's even better of course after the 15 min drive she started over heaving once we got back to the house but that a story for another day

I love these cars so

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Formula388
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Senior Technical Advisor
Goodjob on the final product.
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black83zee
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Media Specialist
Good job, Chris! Hope to see it soon!
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350, carb, headers, side exhaust, T-5, aluminum ds, Baer discs, Bilsteins, tubular a-arms,
tubular torque arm, adjustable track bar and control arms.



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gp90gta
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The Professor
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
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1990 GTA, 350, AFR195's, TPIS Miniram, Dyno Don headers, Custom bumpstick by Bullet cams, 36lbs injectors, Spohn SFC's, Custom tune by me.
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JekyllandHyde
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SENSEI
Awesome work. Glad to see you're saving that Bird. Good job on the fixes.
Currently looking for a 91-92 Z28, TTA or GN
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YoungMoneyVII
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goodjob enjoy
Posted ImagePosted Image

1988 5.7L Trans Am GTA
700R4 Overdrive
WS6
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confucius101
Chris

ok so it took about 2 hours to flush out the rad/engine
fixed a couple vacuum leaks and now she is running great
we let her run for 3 hr's straight on Saturday and the temp gauge never left 120

now i just need to replace my headers y-pipe & cat then find someone to help tuning (always something)

so summit now sells some pacesetter kits that a few people are running in their 6's
but really whats the diff between the painted and ceramics

i know that the ceramic looks better but does it really last longer and
if i was to just get the painted set is there any other or better coating i could use ????


here's this kits in question

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-1206/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-72C1206/
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Formula388
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confucius101
Jul 19 2010, 02:05 PM
ok so it took about 2 hours to flush out the rad/engine
fixed a couple vacuum leaks and now she is running great
we let her run for 3 hr's straight on Saturday and the temp gauge never left 120

now i just need to replace my headers y-pipe & cat then find someone to help tuning (always something)

so summit now sells some pacesetter kits that a few people are running in their 6's
but really whats the diff between the painted and ceramics

i know that the ceramic looks better but does it really last longer and
if i was to just get the painted set is there any other or better coating i could use ????


here's this kits in question

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-1206/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-72C1206/
Your temp gauge must be broken... 120 is pretty low.

Ceramic Coated is by-far the way to go. Keeps underhood temperatures down. Looks better. Wont rust like the painted ones will. It is worth it for the ceramic coated headers if you plan on keeping the car for a long time. If its a temporary project or you dont care, get the painted ones, but the paint will burn off and they will rust and there isnt much you can do about it.
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confucius101
Chris
Yeah i know it is and we thought it might be broken as well but when we shut her down and turned her back on the needle jumped all the way over like always it just settled back down and and never went higher then the 120 mark
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admin_glen
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Founder <-----
Ceramic other wise you are looking for more rust issues.
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:daughtry:

1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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charged355
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Get autometers for gauges, i blew up a new crate motor with inacurate gauges not worth I
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Custom Forged 355 / Solid roller cam/valvetrain / Victor Jr heads / Hurricane Intake/ Accufab 1250cfm Throttle body / MegaSquirt 3 Engine Managment/ 1000cc SouthBay Injectors/ 7.6:1 CR / 4" Custom Single Exhaust / 4000 Circle D Stall/ CK Performance Billet 4L80 FMVB Trans Brake / 3" Chromoly Driveshaft / Full UMI Tubular Rear Suspension / Moser/Strange 9" / 4:11 gears Detroit Locker / Sumped LS1 gas tank / A1000 Fuel pump / A1000 FPR / Paxton Fuel filter / -10 Fuel line -8 return / Borg Warner S475 Turbo @10psi/ JGS 50mm WG & 56mm BOV / PA Racing Complete Tubular Front End Kit With Coilovers / Full Autometer Dash / Custom Black Suade Guts / Built by yours truly/ Tuned by George the EFI whiz

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gp90gta
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The Professor
:yup:
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1990 GTA, 350, AFR195's, TPIS Miniram, Dyno Don headers, Custom bumpstick by Bullet cams, 36lbs injectors, Spohn SFC's, Custom tune by me.
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