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If it was you, what would you do?
Go with the $3000 option and be happy buy take a loss on resale 7 (43.8%)
Do the $2200 option and have a good driver but still be in the hole 2 (12.5%)
Go the Maaco route which would probably be around $1200-1500 7 (43.8%)
Total Votes: 16
What kind of paint job would you do?; 1992 bird
Topic Started: Jul 15 2011, 11:23 AM (281 Views)
1320B4U
"Miley Cyrus Club Pres"
As you all know i purchase a new project located here.
http://s9.zetaboards.com/nythirdgen/topic/7292077/1/

I just got my first estimate on a complete respray from my body guy. Granted, i'm going to do the mechanical's first and make sure the car is fine, but just wanted to get an estimate for maybe spraying it at the end of the summer. Primary things that it needs::

1. Crease in the door/partial quarter panel
2. Rust repair on rear quarter (small amount..no holes)
3. Fix rear spoiler that is cracked on the side.

The little dings/dents are not worth going crazy over imo but the car is more on the rare side w/options and build amount that year. My guy quoted my $3000, it would be close to showroom and insisted on doing certain things like replacing some weatherstriping, etc...painting jams and fixing the spoiler (new one is more expensive than fixing). I've done most of my cars there and know his quality. I was banking around $1800-2000, b/c this is going to be a driver stored outdoors w/161k miles on it. Not planning on keeping it for the long haul (maybe 2years or so). He said i could do a urethane single stage (what i'm assuming is somewhat like maaco) for $2200, but the body work would obv be better than what maaco would offer. He didn't want me to go this route (obv reasons) but offered me this which he usually only does to save costs for rental cars and such. After painting it, doing suspension work/exhaust and miscellaneous things i'll be in it for over 6g's and if i sell it would be taking a loss (looking at around a 4g payout if advertised across other forums and ebay), so i don't want to take that much of a hit. My guy advised against this cheaper option and said to just drive it as it looks ok, but the dent, cracked spoiler and rust is not me (i can fix the rust myself but still have to paint and match or drive around w/it primed). Of course, i am going to field other estimates from other shops but i think this is about what i'm looking for pricewise outside of maaco.

Poll time, what would you do in the most logical sense...i'm thinking about the maaco route..have a presentable driver that looks better than 80% on the road, looks better than it does now, and that i'm not afraid to drive/cruise.
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1991 R/S..1992 L98 Firehawk Tribute (sold)..1999 c5/t56 (sold)..2012 z-71
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JekyllandHyde
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SENSEI
Since you don't plan on keeping it, go maaco and be done with it. If the maaco guys do as gooda job on your car as they did with matt's car you'll be happy with it.
Currently looking for a 91-92 Z28, TTA or GN
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19transam86
Like a G6
JekyllandHyde
Jul 15 2011, 11:29 AM
Since you don't plan on keeping it, go maaco and be done with it. If the maaco guys do as gooda job on your car as they did with matt's car you'll be happy with it.
yay i got a compliment! lol thanks Al

If you really arent plannning on keeping the car, wait till next spring and do a maaco job, they have thier presidents day special on thier presidential package, so you save a little more coin there and it will be 1 less winter the pain will have to endure.....and if you do take care of the little bit of rust urself you'd save even more. but im a little biased towards maaco, the price is perdy damn good
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1986 Pontiac Trans Am, 305, 5-spd, 17" ZO6 Wheels
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admin_glen
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Founder <-----
I am sorry Dave you are a lot like me and if you got the cheaper route you are not going to be happy and will end up doing it again.

Do it right the first time and be done with it.

There is no reason you will not get $6-$7K with that rare optioned car in mint condition.

My car was far from rare (except for the louvers being original) and look what I got.

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1987 IROC 5.7
350 engine swap, HSR, Southbay 36lb injectors, Hedman shorty headers and y-pipe, Magnaflow Hi-flow Catalytic, 3 inch Magnaflow Exhaust System with 3.5" tips, Front end suspension rebuilt, Energy suspension polyurethane control arm bushings, Energy suspension sway bar end links, Spohn Front end steering rebuild kit (Center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm), PST springs (front and rear), KYB struts(front) and KYB Gas-a-just shocks (rear), KYB strut mounts, UMI performance subframe connectors, BMR Strut Tower Brace, Astro Van Steering Shaft upgrade
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BlackMagic
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Senior
I would go the maaco route, but do the body work yourself. Prep work ect...

From what I hear you can get a fabulous job done from maaco as long as you do most of the tedious prep work yourself. Strip it, clean it, fill it. Bring it to them on a trailer, let them paint and prime. Choose a clear coat base coat instead of single stage. Ask them for a couple of extra coats of clear and you should have a great paint job for half the cost.
Posted Image
355, KB pistons, Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts, Ported 882's, bolt in studs/Comp cam/Timing gears. 9.58:1 CR, Victor JR intake port matched, FI Tech fuel injection, MSD Pro Billet, Blaster II and CDI box, Hooker comps to 4" Hawks Sinister Exhaust w/ Hooker Max Flow, Founders tubular LCA/Prothane bushings, LS1 rear brakes, Brembo fronts.
Dropped/Fully Shaved and smoothed exterior and engine bay/VPA door kit/Viper red RN/C5 wagon wheels
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TPI-Formula350-
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LawrenceRacingEngines385
I know the Formulas got new spoilers for 91-92, is it fiberglass? If It's the same material as 87-90 repairing the factory spoiler will never last. It will be cracked again within a year. I had my factory spoiler fixed 3 times before going with a fiberglass after market spoiler. If you plan on selling it soon then just repair the factory spoiler but if you think you'll keep it go after market fiberglass.
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1989 Formula 350....4 Bolt 385, 11:1 CR, Brodix 200IK heads,Comp 280 XFI Roller Cam(230/236 .576/.571 LSA113) Double roller timing chain, Comp Beehive springs, Comp Magnum roller lifters, Comp Magnum push rods,Comp 1:6 Full Roller Rockers, CP forged pistons,Eagle forged rods,Eagle 4340 forged crank,Custom CAI,TB bypass,Holley 52mm Throttle Body,Holley AFPR,Lingenfelter SuperRam,Edelbrock high-flo intake,30lb.FMS red top injectors, Holley 255LPH Fuel pump,Comp,Ceramic coated SLP 1 3/4" Headers,Electric Cut Out,Banks Stinger 3" Catback,1LE smog/ac delete pullies, 160* thermo,Moates GP1,Hughes 4300 stall,shift kit,LS1 aluminum Drive shaft, Nitro 3:70 gears,MSD 6AL,MSD blaster coil,Power Master Alternator,PowerMaster Mini Starter/Alternator,March underdrive pullies,SouthSide Machine subframe,Hothchkis 1" drop springs, Hotchkis STB, TDS Wonder bar, Founders Camber/Caster plates, Founders adjustable LCAs, Founders adjustable Panhard bar, UMI A-arms, UMI adjustable torque arm/ Cross member with DS loop, UMI LCARBs, LS1 front 1LE rear brakes, Black mesh TA rims,Mickey Thompson drag radials, 91/92 nose,cowl hood,fiberglass areo wing.467FWHP-517FWTQ. 3252lbs. Tuned by gp90gta
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charged355
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Nythirdgen Founder
Do it right, bc/cc paint with a two part epoxy primer and a sealer. There is no other option.
Posted Image

Custom Forged 355 / Solid roller cam/valvetrain / Victor Jr heads / Hurricane Intake/ Accufab 1250cfm Throttle body / MegaSquirt 3 Engine Managment/ 1000cc SouthBay Injectors/ 7.6:1 CR / 4" Custom Single Exhaust / 4000 Circle D Stall/ CK Performance Billet 4L80 FMVB Trans Brake / 3" Chromoly Driveshaft / Full UMI Tubular Rear Suspension / Moser/Strange 9" / 4:11 gears Detroit Locker / Sumped LS1 gas tank / A1000 Fuel pump / A1000 FPR / Paxton Fuel filter / -10 Fuel line -8 return / Borg Warner S475 Turbo @10psi/ JGS 50mm WG & 56mm BOV / PA Racing Complete Tubular Front End Kit With Coilovers / Full Autometer Dash / Custom Black Suade Guts / Built by yours truly/ Tuned by George the EFI whiz

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1320B4U
"Miley Cyrus Club Pres"
Fiberglass spoiler eric...made 91-92 model year.
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1991 R/S..1992 L98 Firehawk Tribute (sold)..1999 c5/t56 (sold)..2012 z-71
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MCMLXXXIIIZ28
Advanced Member
I don't know about you guys, but it looks good enough for me in the pics that are posted. I wouldn't go with Macco. I had a truck done by them once and lets just say, I could have done a better job and I am not that good at body work.

I would rather have a fast ass car than a pretty one.

If you really want to paint it, I would agree with Alex, do it right the first time.
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neeb_usmc
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BAMF
I would go with the $3000 option.. You wont regret it, and the value of that car will only go up. Maybe it wont go up a lot but the two years you have it you will not look at the little imperfections that will piss you off. Go big or go home homie!
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ATK built 350,
BBK throttle Body 58mm,
T-56,
Eaton Posi w/ 3.73s,
Corvette turn signals(front&back),
Wings West spoiler,
Shaved handles,
YearOne wheels,
6pt roll cage,
More...

"A Mustang looks like it could kick your ass; a Trans Am is coming over to do it."
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BlackMagic
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Senior
I do all my paint and body work myself. I just cant justify paying a shop 3-5k to paint a car, the same why I can for a quarter of the price.

You might be able to find a guy that can do it free lance for cheaper. I did my bay and I am coming close to the finishing stages. I recommend slick sand, or feather-fill before 2k primer and seal, just something I always do. Allows for crisp lines and shaping while filling up to 36 grit grind marks for things that you might have missed. Oh and don't use cheap filler like bondo. Evercoat premium or better.
Posted Image
355, KB pistons, Eagle rods, ARP rod bolts, Ported 882's, bolt in studs/Comp cam/Timing gears. 9.58:1 CR, Victor JR intake port matched, FI Tech fuel injection, MSD Pro Billet, Blaster II and CDI box, Hooker comps to 4" Hawks Sinister Exhaust w/ Hooker Max Flow, Founders tubular LCA/Prothane bushings, LS1 rear brakes, Brembo fronts.
Dropped/Fully Shaved and smoothed exterior and engine bay/VPA door kit/Viper red RN/C5 wagon wheels
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1320B4U
"Miley Cyrus Club Pres"
I think i'm going to do the rust repair regardless myself right before it gets painted...i don't have the skillset to fix the crease myself..have an idea but its outta my league. And neeb, your the perfect example..if i do the 3g paintjob, counting the cost of the car plus miscell, i'll have almost double what you bought your new formula for....and it has less miles and is cleaner...for way cheaper. This isn't intended to be a complete restoration, just fixing it up w/an eye on the cost. Whats on there right now is a maaco type paint job...looks great in pics but once you see it in person, everyone will understand what i'm talking about...keep the posts coming though..still on the fence.
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1991 R/S..1992 L98 Firehawk Tribute (sold)..1999 c5/t56 (sold)..2012 z-71
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19transam86
Like a G6
if you do go maaco, make sure to take off the door handles!
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1986 Pontiac Trans Am, 305, 5-spd, 17" ZO6 Wheels
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GbodyJerry
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MCMLXXXIIIZ28
Jul 15 2011, 01:25 PM
I don't know about you guys, but it looks good enough for me in the pics that are posted. I wouldn't go with Macco. I had a truck done by them once and lets just say, I could have done a better job and I am not that good at body work.

I would rather have a fast ass car than a pretty one.

If you really want to paint it, I would agree with Alex, do it right the first time.
:iagree:

leave it as is and enjoy it
you're only gonna lose money on it if you spray
1988 Iroc-Z (Sally)
1987 Monte SS (Captain Jack)
1992 Cutlass
'oldman'
1995 Crown Vic (Pinky)
1986 Corolla (Yoko)
1998 Camry (Murray)

Posted ImagePosted Image
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SeriousGearhead
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EKG
I'm with the doc, do it right. Single stage has a tendency to shrink back and reveal sand scratches from bodywork, especially when you cheap out on fillers and primers. It also loses its luster much faster than base/clear finishes due to low UV resistance. Low quality base/clear systems are also prone to these problems and will undoubtedly affect resale. It may not be a show car, but investing the money in a good finish is worth it.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

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Demon-Z
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True American And Proud
me personally I would go the $3000 route but i paid nothing for the car so...... also i would be keeping the car the i g=has to look tight to me.
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Posted ImageThanks Slash

NY3G - NY5G America's new ArmyDemon-Z



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UnseenT/A
The Clueless One
You're planning on reselling it so i'd go with the maaco,if you were planning to keep it for awhile i'd say spend the $ and get it done right.
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19transam86
Like a G6
its staying outside, so its gonna get neat up a little bit, so haveing a e pensive painjob would drive u crazy for every little thing that happened to the car while it was outside,,,,its too much headache sometimes. if something happens to my car (tree branch falls on it) im not happy, but its overall not that bad
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1986 Pontiac Trans Am, 305, 5-spd, 17" ZO6 Wheels
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Tommy13
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Shanes wifey
SeriousGearhead
Jul 15 2011, 07:25 PM
I'm with the doc, do it right. Single stage has a tendency to shrink back and reveal sand scratches from bodywork, especially when you cheap out on fillers and primers. It also loses its luster much faster than base/clear finishes due to low UV resistance. Low quality base/clear systems are also prone to these problems and will undoubtedly affect resale. It may not be a show car, but investing the money in a good finish is worth it.
Tommys paints been on 3 years. If you lift off his lil magnet on the trunk lid, it looks new under it. He spends most of the time in the barn and its still so faded! You can see where the water spots have baked and faded if you get up close on it. For an 80dol paint job i cant complain, still thinking myself of doing it again til i can afford panels and doors and a proper bc/cc at shanes shop ;)

Wish i could just do it all right the first time..his day will come, but go with the 3k job. You wont regret it.
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gp90gta
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The Professor
I'd go maaco, just do alot of the prep yourself, if you can and if not, it will be an okay job for a bang around car.
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1990 GTA, 350, AFR195's, TPIS Miniram, Dyno Don headers, Custom bumpstick by Bullet cams, 36lbs injectors, Spohn SFC's, Custom tune by me.
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